Tenacatita / Barra de Navidad

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Tenacatita was cool, but pretty rolly in the anchorage with swells coming through all day and all night. I don't have a lot to say about it, because I only even went to shore once. That "once" was to go on the Jungle Dinghy Trip with Lou and Lydia (s/v Shiloh) and Al and Yvette (s/v Sailfisher). It's pretty fun cruising through the mangroves, some overhanging branches and lots of wildlife. At the end of the trip you come out at a beach near the entrance to the bay where there are dozens of palapa restaurants. What I found very curious about the palapa restaurants is they all have signs by Corona. Like Corona gives them the signs or something. At the one we picked out for lunch we had some amazing guacamole.
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It was so good that I ordered two more orders para llevar and bring as my contribution to the potluck that night. Unfortunately, trying to get through the surf-line on the way back to the boat we took a big breaking wave over the dinghy and it soaked the chips, but the guac survived.

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Yesterday we all headed here for Barra de Navidad. I took my time getting out of Tenacatita because I did something to my neck and was very very sore. I think it was from swimming a couple mornings ago, not stretching out well enough or something. So after I stretched out some more and did some self-massage, I pulled anchor and started out of Tenacatita Bay, close reaching into 15 knots, when "BANG!" - loads of noise and craziness from above my head from a wildly flapping mainsail. I had to get pointed into the wind and get it down somehow, before more bad stuff happened. Bottom line: my outhaul had broken. What happened is that the outhaul is connected to a stainless still ring which is attached to the boom mandrel (mandrel is the right word, I think?) which is the thing that the sail rolls around to furl. The bolts that hold the stainless steel ring to the mandrel had had too much strain over the years and they finally just broke. Two of them broke, anyway; the other two ripped out. So trying to get the sail down with a broken outhaul and a boom-furling main was a chore. I ended up being able to get a temporary outhaul jury-rigged well enough to get the first couple wraps around the mandrel, and then was able to use the furling system to get it down the rest of the way. It was a good "sailing challenge" and a great place for it to happen since I only had about 2 hrs of motoring before I was in a marina. Luckily, Al on Sailfisher has a full-on machine shop on board, so with his taps I was able to re-tap the stripped holes and he also had bolts I could use to reattach the ring to the mandrel. It took some pounding to re-shape the stainless ring to fit back on the mandrel, but we're good now, but I'll need to raise and re-attach the sail more permanently.

So, the marina at Barra... it's pretty luxe here, with some huge awesome motoryachts, golf and tennis and a full-service spa. I don't feel like paying $80 to get a massage, though I desparately need one. There's a place in town where I can probably get one for $20, so I'll check that out later. Who knows, it's probably the same masseuse. It's almost $100/night to stay here, so I'll be here only until I get the boom fully repaired and get some other necessities taken care of. I got my outboard motor fixed this morning, so that's a relief.

Next stop is Manzanillo after one more day of luxury (and golf, if my body can handle it).

TT
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La Cruz to Tenacatita

Edited to post photos. I have wifi here in Tenacatita thanks to my cool new wifi adapter and 9db antenna (you can get it here, if you want - pretty good deal).
 
Almost exactly a 24-hour trip from La Cruz (only 120 miles but I took my time, mostly going only 5 knots or so). Left La Cruz about 2:30 pm yesterday (the 28th) and arrived here in Tenacatita today around 2pm. Immediately after leaving La Cruz, there was about 20-25 knots on my port bow, so it was a fast close reach out of Banderas Bay, but soon after sunset, just after Cabo Corientes, the wind died to almost nothing. I motor-sailed for a while, but soon even that didn't make sense. I remember at one point this morning about 3am that there was absolutely *zero* wind. The water was glass. It may have picked up to 2-3 knots as I was approaching Tenacatita, but nothing worth raising any sail.

I did the whole trip and felt pretty well-rested when I got here, but I just woke up after a 3 hour nap. I know I slept for a couple of 15-20 minute naps around midnight (I set my iPhone to wake me up every 30 mins if I happen to fall asleep), and then I think this morning around 4-6 I must have reset that iPhone alarm at least 3 times. Basically, the routine is:
- Set the countdown timer for 30 min
- Have a good look around: AIS, Radar, check course, check visual
- lay down, take 5-15 mins to fall asleep (often check everything again 10 minutes into this "break")
- when alarm rings indicating 30 mins is up, get up, check everything again, and either make some coffee / tea or do it again.
It's amazing how slowly things happen out there. I can see a ship coming on the AIS from up to 60 or 70 miles away, sometimes, so I'll see a freighter 3-4 hours before our paths will cross. And it's so dark out there that it's pretty easy to see any lights that shouldn't be there (any lights that aren't lighthouses). Last night I only passed two boats that were close-in to shore like me (5-6 miles offshore), and those were both yachts heading north. All other traffic was well offshore: freighters and cruise lines mostly heading north. Because I can get such a good look every 15-20 minutes, the only thing I really worry about is running into a long line while motoring. A long line is a single fishing line / rope with many other leaders and hooks hanging off of it. Sometimes they're tied to any random floating piece of stuff, and sometimes the irresponsible fishermen use non-leaded line or don't put enough weight on their line. If I were to run over a long line in the middle of the night it would be bad enough and I'd have to try to shut down the engine or take it out of gear asap, so if I were resting that's that much longer for the line to wrap around my propeller shaft and possibly do damage - possibly pull the shaft out of the shaft seal enough to create a major leak. It's happened. But it's one of those things... you just have to hope you're not unlucky.

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Wildlife-wise, I got my first Dorado (Mahi-Mahi) before leaving Banderas Bay, about 30 mins before sunset right around Cabo Corrientes. It was a pretty big one, I think. I used the special lure technique taught me by Norm in San Blas: the Dorado Killer, he calls it. You have a plastic bottle that you just fill mostly with water and drag behind the boat about 10 feet in front of an artificial squid. It's sort of a poor-man's flasher. The bottle spins and dives and splashes around, creating attention for the squid. It's pretty cool and seems to work very well when you get the bottle filled just right and conditions are such that the bottle will dance. I wish I would have bought a fish scale to measure this fish; I have no idea how much these things weigh. I'll guess this one was about 25 pounds.

Edit: Uh... this wasn't a dorado. It was a Jack Crevalle, which is why it tastes so horrible.

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This morning after sunrise I started seeing dozens of turtles resting at the surface. The water was very calm so often I could see I was coming upon a little hump coming from 1/4 mile away. I got a few really good pictures (and a couple good self-pics of the dorado) that I'll add to this entry when I get a real internet connection (posting this via sailmail / SSB).

Had a nice surprise when I rounded Roca Centro to come into the anchorage; my old friends Sailfisher and Shiloh are here. I've pretty much been resting and cleaning, working on the outboard since I got here, and I didn't see their dinghies so they were ashore - I haven't seen them, but I'm looking forward to hanging out for a night. I'll be heading farther south on a day-sail tomorrow or Sunday. I may fuel up at Barra Navidad, which is right next door (about 10 miles away) and then head to Manzanillo, which is only 37 miles away. Manzanillo to Zihuatanejo is almost 200 miles, so I'll want to be rested up for that. I may also look for a stopping point half way; I'm going to be making great progress from here on, so there's no real need for overnighters before the Gulf of Tehuantapec crossing over to Costa Rica.

TT

 

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